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Saturday, May 9, 2015

New Fixed Portlights

old screwed on ports

All of the fixed ports on my LF38 were in ruff shape. They were all screwed in place with stainless screws and finish washers.  One of the port was actually split in two with a nice vertical 1/8" gap separation. They leaked and were duct tapped until it was time fix them. 






They were made of 1/4" thick grey Lexan. I decided to stay with polycarbonate. In my opinion, the benefits out way the negatives.  Polycarbonate is much easier to cut, sand, and work with.  Acrylic chips and cracks more aggressively. As for the negatives, the cost of polycarbonate has come way done and it now comes in a UV and scratch resistant stock(see below). 






Replacing the ports is easy, preparing to do so is a chore. The cabin top surface should be extremely clean and smooth. Having a cabin top which was in the process of being painted went in my favor as I was not afraid to sand, clean, fill, sand, clean, epoxy, sand, and clean. A Dremel and sanding drums worked well here(you can get a bag of 25 sanding drums for a few $ from McMaster-Carr).






To replace the ports, I pretty much followed the procedure outlined by Don Casey in Sail Magazine (link below) on the section for frameless ports via 3M VHB tape. To add to Casey’s article, I traced the old ports and cut the material for the first port with a sabersaw and the others with a band saw. Both worked out fine, but the later was much quicker and easier.  I then sanded down the edges and sanded down the inside corner-edge on a belt sander(I later used a router table which worked out nicely). Removing the inside edge was done to help the adhesive/sealant flow better around the seam.  This worked easily and produced nice results.






Leaving the protective film on the ports, I aligned the ports in place and traced out the inside lip. Removing the port, I gingerly cut along the inner tracing with a razor knife and removed the outer film.  The exposed area was lightly sanded with 400 grit paper and painted with one light coat of black Krylon Fusion.  The Fusion paint forms a mask around the edges so that the VBH tape and the Dow 795 are not visible through the window.  Also, the Krylon Fusion acts like a bonding primer promoting adhesion.   After letting the paint dry, I added the VHB tape on the painted surface aligning the tape to the inside edge making sure that there was at least 1/4" of space on the outer edge.  


Then the port was realigned in place.  When I was happy with the spacing, I ran two wide, equally spaced, pieces of masking tape down from above the port onto the  port. The tape held the port in place and also let me lift it up like it was hinged so that I could then remove the protective cover from the VHB tape. Once done, I then gently swing down the port and stuck it in place.  After fixing the port, I masked off the cabin top and applied the Dow 795. Using the wet finger trick, I smoothed out the seam, cleaned up, and then removed the masking tape and protective film from the port.




See Don Casey's article for more details. Here is a link to the article.  

http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights 

Material:
measurements:   1/4” thick with ruff cut sizes:
                              2@9”x42"
                              2@9”x52"
 I also found great prices for acrylic/lexan at eStreet Plastic. I used 3M VHB #5952 tape (1/2" & 3/4") and Dow 795 both which I purchased from McMaster-Carr(item numbers: 8127A22, 8127A23 & 7452A21), and I sprayed the under-side, unmasked area with black Krylon Fusion spray paint from Ace hardware.


EStreetPlastics.com
2 ea - 1/4" x 10" x 43" transparent grey polycarbonate:  $34.98 ea (plus shipping)

2 ea - 1/4" x 10" x 53" transparent grey polycarbonate:  $48.98 ea (plus shipping)

Extended Abrasion and UV resistance
Makrolon® 15 sheet is a polycarbonate product that offers high impact resistance, weathering life, and optical quality. It provides a clear aesthetic advantage over wire glass and metal screens for security glazing. Makrolon 15 withstands vandalism, forced entry attempts, and accidental impacts to minimize the risk of theft and glass replacement in damage prone areas. Advanced manufacturing technology has resulted in high optical quality with minimal distortion in clear and standard glazing tints. It has an abrasion resistant coating that provides up to twice the life of prior polycarbonate sheet products. Makrolon 15 sheet has a fifteen (15) year Limited Product Warranty against breakage, yellowing, and loss of light transmission. The terms of the warranty are available upon request.



polycarbonate from eStreetPlastic
using 3M VHB tape to fix a port






two ports ready for DOW 795
first completed port

new ports 3 months later
new ports 3 months later


Sunday, March 22, 2015

New Teak Toe Rail

missing toe rail & rub rail on aft port side
 Missing Toe Rail & Rub Rail



As can be seen by these two photos,  Johanna Rose was missing a 7' section of teak toe rail.  Also, rather than having the standard vinyl rub rail, the Johanna Rose has a teak 1-1/2" x 5/8" rub rail of which about 20' were missing or in need of replacing.

missing 7' section of toe rail



 Making a Toe Rail & Rub Rails

I purchased a 2"x5"x7.5' teak board at Redwood Bay Lumber in Blountstown, FL.  Since teak is expensive ($160 for the board), I did not want to make any mistakes in cutting the teak, so  I first made some measurements & angular calculation, then made practice cuts and then a practice toe rail from scrap wood in the yard.  Within a short time, I had the pattern fixed and then made the toe rail from the teak.  

Installing Toe Rail & Rub Rails
The toe rail screw holes were aligned and drilled one by one to match the deck holes by bending and aligning the teak along the deck curve.  As each hole was drilled, a temporary screw was inserted to aid fixing the rail to the curved deck.  After a light sanding several coats of Marine Natural Teak Cetol were applied.


installing teak toe rail
installing teak toe rail









toe rail installed with sunken  screws  capped with teak bungs




Sunday, March 15, 2015

Painting the Deck

The Old Deck

I purchase the Johanna Rose with her decks somewhat sanded for painting.  In preparations for painting, all hardware was removed, the deck washed down with detergent, sanded with 80 grit, vacuumed, and washed down with Naphtha solvent.






















Painting BrightSides

Since most of the deck area was to be non-skid, the area without non-skid were to be painted using Brightside white paint.  Areas bare of paint were first primed with Interlux Prekote and sanded with 150 grit paper.  Since the majority of the deck is non-skid, only the non-skid area and an overlap region was painted with Brightsides.  After the first coat of Brightsides dried it was lightly sanded using grey 3M scotch pads followed by a Naphtha wipe down before applying a second coat of Brightsides.  The coachroof was painted first followed by the foredeck. 


















Filling Old Instrument Holes

grinding fiberglass to a bevel
The old Standard Horizon round instruments were non-functional, and so I decided to fiberglass over all of the old instrument in the coachroof.  Each hole was ground down to the fiberglass, beveling the grind from full thickness to a near paper thin thickness over a two inch width.  The procedure to fiberglass the hole followed closely the method describe by Don Casey in his "Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual".  I used heavy, medium, light weight fiberglass weave.  Cut large circles from the heavier weight material followed by slightly smaller circles of medium weight fiberglass patches, and so forth.  I wetted out the material with epoxy and started layering with large fiberglass patches followed by smaller and smaller patches.  Once the epoxy kicked and while the epoxy was still green, I faired over the area with 50-50 colloidal silica & 3M glass spheres.  After curing and sanding, the area was ready for priming and painting.  
curing epoxy
fiberglass epoxy curing



finish sanding with spot putty, at a later time the instrument
below the compass was fiberglassed over too
finishing with spot putty



Finishing with KiwiGrip NonSkid


KiwiGrip is every thing that it is hyped up to be.  Easy to work with. Does not require extensive prep or special primers.   It is a bit on the expensive side, but I have learned that it is worth it.   The bad issue I ran into was that it can be difficult to get during the cold months.  This sounds crazy, but I was unable to get white KiwiGrip in Florida because the distributer is in the sate of Washington and they don't ship if there is a risk of it freezing! Apparently it spoils if frozen.   They will overnight ship any time of the year, but I was not interested in paying an additional $90 for shipping.

Eventually I was able have some white KiwiGrip shipped out of Los Osos, CA by Chetco Marine in mid March.  By the time I finished, I ended up using about 1.25 gallons of KiwiGrip.  It  turned out that the first gallon of KiwiGrip from Chetco Marine arrived damaged and opened in the box.  I managed to salvaged about 1/2 the gallon.  Chetco Marine(nice folks) sent out a complete replacement gallon.  I still have a little left for touch ups.  One gallon may have been enough, but since I had plenty, focused on putting down a good layer.

KiwiGrip goes on easy. Basically you just thickly slop it on the surface. I used  a paint brush. It's like coating your deck with a thick layer of mayo.  You then go over this with the KiwiGrip proprietary roller (which is the same as a Rust-Oleum Restore roller found at Lowes). That's it.

Below are photos showing results of the deck painting.  The final section painted was the cockpit which was actually done at the dock.  In the photos below, the cockpit locker lid remain unpainted but soon have a Brigthtside paint base with a standard non-skid of Kiwigrip matching the rest of the cockpit.











locker tops are not painted in this photo



old round instruments holes are gone