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Monday, January 14, 2019

Repairing a Yanmar 3-Way Engine Buzzer Alarm (one buzzer alarm for temp, oil, alt)

This post describes a past project performed in 2010.  The vessel at the time was our previous Johanna Rose, a 1979 C&C 29-mk1,  which had a Yanmar 2QM15 auxiliary engine.

I originally posted the text below on the mail listserver in Dec 2011.  I have updated the component prices and added some accompanying photos

"I replaced/repaired the Yanmar engine buzzer alarm a few years ago at a cost under $30.   It turns out to be pretty easy to replace the guts of the buzzer with a new Sonalert buzzer.  This keeps the buzzer and wiring harness looking like an old unit but working like new.   It was an easy enough task that I later fixed an similar Yanmar alarm for buddy.  I took some pictures of the second process, and I have been meaning to write it up, but I have been forgetful.  I'll summarize my procedure below.

First let me explain how the original buzzer works.   There are 5 wires leading from the buzzer wire socket to the buzzer unit.  The red is 12V which becomes powered when the ignition key is turned to the on position.   There are three blue wires which go to water temperature, oil pressure, and alternator sensors.  There is a yellow wire which is not used at all.   When the ignition key is on, the buzzer is supplied +12V.  When a sensor trips it provides the ground for the circuit allowing the buzzer to sound.   For example, one of the blue wires merges with the ground wire for an alarm panel light bulb and then connects directly to the hot water temperature sensor on the engine block.  When the sensor over heats, it trips and provides a direct ground of the buzzer and its alarm light to the engine block.  Buzzer sounds and light goes on."


  •  Replacement buzzer:  Mallory Sonalert part # SC616NL
    • costs about $27 (2019 Digi-Key # 458-1026-ND)
      • I spoke with an engineer at Mallory who claims this sealed buzzer is commonly used for marine applications
  • 3 rectifier diodes  1N40007 
    • cost: Quantity of 10 cost $1.09 (2019 Digi-Key # N4007-TPMSCT-ND)
      • Note: current flows only one way in a diode.  The diodes are used to isolate the grounds so that only the corresponding alarm light turns on.


[1] Remove old buzzer from vessel

Remove the old buzzer from the yanmar panel.  The body of the buzzer screws on to the face guard sandwiching the panel plate. Just grab the buzzer body and turn to loosen.   If it is too tight, try one of the rubber strap oil filter removers to get better leverage.

[2] Remove old buzzer guts and enlarge inside opening

On back of the buzzer remove the sticky black sealant to get access to where the old buzzer wires enter the buzzer circuit board. Now cut or break the wires off at the old circuit board in the buzzer.  NOTE:   the wiring harness first goes through a rubber grommet then to the inside circuit board.   Use a screw driver and hammer to break up the old internal circuit board and remove the with needle-nose pliers.   The metal cross backing which also hold the rubber grommet is pressed into the back of the alarm.  Pry/pull it off of the back of the buzzer housing.   Now remove the old buzzer internals by using a Dremel to cut it out from the front side of the buzzer.   The hole left from cutting out the old buzzer internals is about the same size as the treads for the new buzzer.  Use the Dremel to sand and clean up inside diameter so that the new buzzer fits.

[3] Install new buzzer

Insert the new buzzer from back side of the old buzzer housing and screw the cap nut on the front side.  Use a little silicone sealant to seal the frontside threads and cap nut.

[4] Solder buzzer to old buzzer wiring harness.

Solder the silver end of a diodes
to each blue wire.  Twist the other
ends of the three diodes together and
solder to the new black buzzer wire.
The new buzzer has two wires: red and black.   Connect the red wires. You will need to solder and shrink tube the old and new red wires together. Prior to heating the shrink tube, I applied some liquid electrical tape over the soldering, let dry, then heated the shrink tube(or one could use adhesive lined heat shrink tube).  The new black wire is connected to the three blue wires via the diodes.  Look at the diode. It will have a black body with a silver end.  Solder the silver end of a diodes to each blue wire.  Twist the other ends of the three diodes together and solder to the new black buzzer wire.  Now use liquid tape and shrink tube (you should slip on the shrink tubes before soldering).  I also used a larger heat shrink tube over all of the wires as final step.

[Sorry, I do not have photos of the soldering process]

[5] Final clean up before reinstall buzzer back in panel.

Add a final touch of new-ness to the repair by renewing any sunlight discoloration of the black plastic cover cap.  There are many ways to do this, such as cleaning, polishing, and waxing (like one would do to renew a headlight lens), or scrub, clean, and spray paint.   For this project I recommend spray painting with black Krylon  Fusion.  

Sunday, August 19, 2018

Replacing the Companionway Sliding Hatch

Write up in progress

Original sliding hatch was constructed from 3/8" smoked

Cracked slider with temporary taped repair. The
side Aluminum angle rails, teak top handle, teak
bottom board, and teak slide stop have been

A temporary sliding hatch was constructed from 1/4"
exterior plywood.  A small 1"x2" wood strip was
added ,in a similar fashion to the original slider, to
which the locking hasp was attached.   

 Transparent Grey "Smoked" #2064 Plexiglass - 3/8" x 28" x 36"  $100 plus shipping costs

Clear 3/8" acrylic was sanded on both top and bottom faces to
provide a frosted appearance.

Dry fit of sliding hatch components.  The teak bottom board is
secured to the acrylic by 5 flathead screws flush to the acrylic
surface.  These flathead  screws are covered by the teak slide
handle with an additional 3 screws securing the handle to the
bottom board.

New sliding hatch installed.

Sunday, August 12, 2018

Stemhead Bow Roller Replacement

Broken Stemhead Bow Roller

A Broken stemhead was noticed during a routine inspection of the forestay toggles.  The stemhead exhibited two long crakes between the mounting bolts on one side and the center forestay/chainplate mounts on the other. This effectively meant that  rigging was only secured by half of the bolts, but worst, the support was through an uneven load.   If left alone, the forestay would likely tear itself out causing all kinds of havoc.

Close view of crack along the headstay

Crack along right set of bolts

Old Deck/Hull Attachment Bolts

Disconnecting the headstay and the roller furler was straight forward.  Removing the 8 mounting bolts holding the stemhead bow roller to the hull/deck was not so easy.  Access to the mounting nuts located at the bow tip is through the chain locker.  There is inadequate space for using a ratchet socket and even little space for turning a wrench.  It took nearly 4 hours to remove the 8 bolts using a 1/2" flexing ratcheting wrench for all but two bolts.  The box end of the wrench did not fit on 2 of the nuts as the nuts were too close to the hull, these nuts were removed using the open wrench end at a rate of 1/6th turn at a time.    Once all nuts were removed, the stemhead bow roller was easy to lift out. 

Stemhead mounting bolts access via the anchor locker.

Securing the roller furler with a seat
cousin at the hull and lashing near toe
rail, up on a side shroud, and at the lower 
spreader.   A temporary (i.e. several weeks) 
mast support was  done with a removable forestay
and two halyards connected to the bow cleats.

Freeing the stemhead bow roller.
Another view of the old stemhead bow roller.

 New Stemhead Bow Roller Design

I found a company online which advertises the fabrication of custom stemheads.  While the products descriptions were nice and professional, the quoted price for a simple single bow roller stemhead was $1,800-$2,000.    I chose to design my own stemhead bow roller, and I was fortunate and very grateful to have the help from a friend in fabricating the design.    The design uses a 1/2" thick  316 Stainless Steel, all 316 Stainless bolts and hardware, and a commercially available bow roller and bow chocks.   A baseplate thickness of 1/4" and 3/8" were considered, but opted for 1/2" plate as it make a more robust design.  The added thickness also allows more secure beveled mounting of the underside bolts and for tapping and threading the bow roller attachment.  A Windline model AR-3 was used for the bow roller which is rated for anchors up to 60 lbs.  For bow chocks,  Schaefer XCL model 60-50 were used.  These bow chocks are secured from underneath the base plate with flush flat head bolts giving the appearance of a nice custom look.  The center chainplate mounting brackets were also bolted from the plate bottom with 4 bolts tapped into each bracket side.  These bolts were thread locked with Loctit 421 and sealed with Loctite PL Marine sealant.  The new design extends the anchor roller out an additional 5 inches but maintains the same winch chain centerline alignment.  This design include space to allow for the addition of a second anchor roller if future needs dictate, but currently plans are leading towards adding a padeye for external asym downhaul  block attachment.   The bow chocks were aligned centered to the chainplate clevis pin hole similar to the original.  The cost in added weight of the new design is an extra 17 lbs compared to the old stemhead bow roller.  This is a small amount compared to my 44 lbs Vulcan and 150' of 5/16" HT G4 chain. 

Before finalizing the design dimensions, a plywood template was made.  The original mounting holes were transferred from the old stemhead and a test fit on the vessel confirmed all dimensions and fitting.  In mounting the new stemhead, nearly a whole tube of Loctit PL Marine was used, much of the sealant was needed to fill a void right at the bow tip where the same amount of old sealant was removed.  The outside seal between the bottom of the new stemhead and the hull topside was made using bead of white Dow 795 silicone building sealant.  

New Stemhead design plan. Base plate is made from 1/2" thick  316 Stainless Steel plate.   The
new design extends the anchor roller by an additional 5 inches but maintains the same winch
centerline alignment.  The design include space to allow for the addition of a second anchor

Material List

  • Base plate
    • 316 Stainless Steel plate  (Online Metals)
      • 316 1/2” x 12-3/4” x 17-3/4"      
        • includes material for stay mount brackets
  • Mounting Hardware (McMaster-Carr)
    •  Forestay brackets
      • 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 5/16"-18, 1" length 
        •  quantity : 8  
    • Mounting bolts  
      • quantity: 8  
        • 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 5/16"-18, 3" length
        • 316 Stainless Steel Hex Nut, 5/16"-18
        • 316 Stainless Steel Lock Washer, 5/16"-18
        • 316 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.344" ID
          • two bolts used standard 316 Stainless Steel Washers
    • Bow chock bolts
      • 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw,  M12 x 1.75mm Thread, 30mm Long
        • quantity: 4
    • Bow roller bolts
      • 316 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screws 3/8"-16 3/4"
        • quantity: 5
        • bolts shortened to 5/8"
  • Bow Chocks 
    • Schaefer XCL Model 60-50 (Marui Pro)
  • Bow Roller
    • Windline Model AR-3  (Ebay)
  • Bolt thread lock & sealing
    • Loctite 241 thread lock
    • Loctite PL Marine FC adhesive sealant  (a Polyether like 3M 4000UV)
    • Dow 795 Sealant, white

 A plywood prototype was constructed with bolt holes transferred
from the original stemhead to test mounting and finalize design.

Old stemhead next to new stemhead. The new designs extends
the anchor roller an additional 5".  

Mounting of the new stemhead bow roller.

New stemhead bow roller with forestay rigged in place.

Friday, July 20, 2018

Boat Shirts

Based on many positive comments from C&C owners on the CnC mailing list, we looked into the Maritime T-shirt Company( ).  We have never heard of this company before, but C&C  folks were very pleased with the delivered design, quality, and price.

Above is a mockup of the shirts that we ordered.  It is not clear from their website that they can accommodate some design changes and additions.  For instance, our mockup adds "Landfall 38" on the back of the shirt and "S/V Johanna Rose" on the front under the C&C logo.  We ordered 6 shirts and were not charged any extra for the modifications.

Here's a photo of the shirts that arrived 5 days after ordering.

Front side: C&C logo with S/V Johanna Rose under

Back side: Landfall 38 Sail Plan  

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Installing a Smart Thermostat

 Air conditioning system and original thermostat

Original  Braeburn 2020 programmable
thermostat provided by Flagship Marine.
A new air conditioning system was installed mid 2015 in Johanna Rose.  The system, manufactured by Flagship Marine, is model FM16R which is a 16,500 BTU AC with digital 2KW heat element.  The manufacture provides a Braeburn 2020 programmable thermostat to control the system. This is an ordinary  thermostat that is common in most households.

Honeywell Lyric T-5 WiFi Thermostat

Honeywell Lyric T-5 WiFi

I recently installed a Honeywell Lyric T-5 smart thermostat at home and was impressed by its performance.  While the Lyric T-5 may not have all the bells and whistles of a $300+ smart thermostat, it has all the bells and whistles that I'm interested in using and at 1/3 the cost.

While the Lyric T-5 can work with Apple's HomeKit and Amazon's Echo, I find that the Honeywell Lyric/Home iPhone app and the free Honeywell cloud services works fine.   I can check and control the current temperature remotely.  As with most thermostats, the temperature can be scheduled to change settings at various times of the day and days of the week.  But the geofence feature allows for an added control layer of home and away.   Within the Honeywell app, one sets a circular geofence, and when one enters or leaves the geofence, the system changes to home or away mode settings.

I soon convinced myself that I needed one for the boat.   Having the ability to turn on the AC prior to arriving at the boat is a real luxury. This is especially nice since I live about a 2 hours drive from the boat.  Of course, smart thermostats requires constant internet access, but nowadays this is not a problem.  A few years ago I installed a long range WiFi system which includes a dedicated WiFi network for the boat.   The added advantage of a dedicated system is that all network enabled devices (i.e., phones, computers, iPads, AppleTV, Raymarine Chart Plotter, ...)  connect to the boat Wifi.   The boat WiFi gets internet access from an Ubiquiti Bullet WiFi radio. 

Thermostat Wiring

Installing the Lyric T-5 at home was straight forward and simple.   The old thermostat was removed and the 5 color coded thermostat control wires were connected to the color code inputs of the Lyric T-5 mounting socket.  Once the T-5 is plugged into the mounting socket, the device powers up.  One  then downloads and runs the Lyric iOS app following app instructions to set the device up.  For my home installation, it took about a minute to get working. Nice, simple, and quick.

Installing the Lyric T-5 on the boat required more effort.  This was because the Lyric T-5 requires a common ""C"" wire to power the unit.   Most home AC system have the common ""C"" blue wire as one of the color coded wires in the thermostat cable.  The boat AC system did not.  The Flagship Marine thermostat uses a 9V battery for power and 4 control wires(see photos below). 
Original mounting socket for the Braeburn 2020.

Thermostat wire buss bar mounted on the Flagship Marine
remote control panel.   The top 4 wire lead to the 
Braeburn 2020 thermostat.


I sent Flagship Marine an email inquiring about access to a common "C" for the Lyric T-5.  Kudos to Flagship Marine for responding 26 minutes later with diagrams and instructions on accessing the transformer 24VAC common for the common "C" 5th blue wire.  For only a few dollars, several feet of a thermostat control cable with 5 standard color coded wires were purchased at a local Home Depot.  The thermostat control cable was connected to the Lyric mounting socket replacing 4 original wire control cable.  Four of the wires were connected to the AC control buss(see photo above).  A separate short blue wire was run from the control buss inside the control panel to the transformer 24VAC common.  The 24VAC common was accessed at through a small yellow wire which connects the transformer to all relays.  The blue wire connection was made using a 2 male 1 female spade connector at the blower transformer.  At the control panel buss, the blue wire was connected with spade connectors to the blue wire of the thermostat control cable.  Note, there is another larger yellow wire which actually runs out to the control panel buss. This larger yellow wire is for the compressor and is not to be confused with the smaller yellow wire of the 24VAC common.   The Lyric T-5 was then plugged into the mounting socket and the set up was performed as described above for the home installation (i.e. follow the app instructions).

Honeywell has recently updated the iOS Lyric app improving the app performance and changing the app's name to "Honeywell Home".

Access to the transformer 24VAC common.
The transformer is located center right shown
with white label. 

Wire diagram for low voltage system.
The 24VAC common is the yellow diagram
wire running from the transformer 

A 2 male 1 female spade connector
was used to tap into the transformer
24VAC common.

Thermostat wire buss bar mounted on the
Flagship Marine remote control panel.   The 4
original thermostat wires plus a 5th (blue) lead
to the  Honeywell Lyric T-5 Smart thermostat.
The 5th blue wire is connected a white wire
through male/female spade connectors with
a shrink tube boot. The white wire is connected
to the 24VAC common. 

 Lyric T-5 mounting socket with the 5 wire required for operation.  The thermostat plugs in and automatically powers on for set up. 

Honeywell Lyric T-5 WiFi thermostat in operation.
Screen shot of Honeywell Lyric
iOS app controlling the thermostat.
Honeywell has recently updated the
iOS Lyric app changing the app
name to "Honeywell Home". 

Monday, January 1, 2018

Icebox Upgrade to Refrigeration

New Refrigeration System Components

Isotherm 3751 ASU SP Water Cooled Refrigeration Component System.

Image result for isotherm asu 3751 SP

Removing the Old IceBox

A SPX-5 wheel autopilot is currently installed on Johanna Rose, a C&C Landfall 38.  SPX-5 wheel autopilot system from Raymarine includes a

Removing galley sink through-hull

Reaming Back the Core

Installing the Isotherm SP Water Cooled Heat Exchange Through-Hull fitting

Plumbing the galley sink drain 

Vapor Barrier


Interior Box Fabrication

Box Liner

Liner Box Installation

Cold Plate Installation

Compressor Installation

Installing the top board and access hatches

Freezer Divider and Refrigeration Self