Projects Links

Click on the "Links"  to go to Project and About Pages Click for Projects Links                                 About the Vess...

Friday, December 8, 2023

Replacing Teak handrails with Ali-Stainless

The Landfall 38 has 6 handrails.  After years of sanding, varnishing, and caulking, I finally reached the point where the teak handrails were more of a maintenance project than a safety feature.  Each rainy season seemed to reveal yet another stubborn leak under the rail bases, and despite many efforts, the deck/wood made for an unreliable seal.

Switching to stainless steel was a decision I mulled over for a while. Purists will say teak has a warmth and traditional beauty that metal can’t match, and they’re right — but practicality won this round. Stainless offers several advantages for a non-purist:

  • Zero varnish or oiling — just an occasional fresh water to remove salt spray.

  • No swelling, shrinking, flexing — so bedding stays intact and watertight.

  • Higher strength — especially important in rough weather when you really lean on them.

I obtained quotes from a few marine stainless steel fabricators. All prices came in about $1,500 for all 6 rails.  The rails I found on AliExpress were surprisingly well-made for the price. In all I spent a little over $100.  The polished finish looks sharp against the cabin top, and the pre-fitted mounting studs allowed for a secure water tight thru bolt mounting, with a near match to the old teak footprint (only minor adjustments needed). The several individual stainless hand holds were arranged as one long length  similar to the original teak, which gives the deck a cleaner, more modern look.













Shorter aft rails were installed so that they would be contained within a future dodger.

Installation tips from the project:

  1. Dry fit first — even with close measurements, small variances in hole spacing can happen.

  2. Bedding compound matters — I used butyl tape for flexibility and long-term sealing; silicone or polyurethane could work too, but avoid anything that makes future removal a nightmare.

  3. Back plates help — stainless washers or backing plates spread the load and prevent gelcoat stress cracks.

  4. Check the camber — stainless rails are rigid, so be sure they match the cabin-top curve before committing to the holes. I adjusted (bend more/less) for uniform fit.

After the install, I gave the old teak rails one last look before retiring them to my garage for a second life as a home project. On deck, the new stainless rails feel rock-solid and maintenance-free. Best of all, after several years the rails have rem lined leak free. 

No comments:

Post a Comment